artoo_cu
Youngling
Just looking for some clarity :lol: on bubbles.
Always wary of recards / reseals :evil: & interested in Kenner v. Palitoy production methods and quality standards.
In my limited experience Kenner bubbles are generally tight around the figure, pressure sealed (causing the 'waffle' print) and sometimes prone to lifting / cracking because of a the nature of the seal / type of plastic. POTF bubbles are almost always yellowed - possibly because of the reaction of the metal coin with the plastic bubble.
Palitoy bubbles (and I've only got 'hands on' experience with 45A & onwards) are made of a softer plastic, hence prone to denting. With 'air-space' around the figure from 65D (?) onwards. They sometimes seem to be squared-off around the outer-edge where the bubble meets the card (giving a lower quality look), and may have been glue(?) sealed as I often can't detect evidence of a 'waffle' print.
Anyone got any more / different opinions or good photos for comparative purposes? Cheers.
Always wary of recards / reseals :evil: & interested in Kenner v. Palitoy production methods and quality standards.
In my limited experience Kenner bubbles are generally tight around the figure, pressure sealed (causing the 'waffle' print) and sometimes prone to lifting / cracking because of a the nature of the seal / type of plastic. POTF bubbles are almost always yellowed - possibly because of the reaction of the metal coin with the plastic bubble.
Palitoy bubbles (and I've only got 'hands on' experience with 45A & onwards) are made of a softer plastic, hence prone to denting. With 'air-space' around the figure from 65D (?) onwards. They sometimes seem to be squared-off around the outer-edge where the bubble meets the card (giving a lower quality look), and may have been glue(?) sealed as I often can't detect evidence of a 'waffle' print.
Anyone got any more / different opinions or good photos for comparative purposes? Cheers.