Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Vintage Star Wars Collecting
Vintage Showcase
Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Snaketibe" data-source="post: 478041" data-attributes="member: 7379"><p>[ATTACH=full]40329[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I actually tweaked the design and some of the measurements as I went along, but the sketches gave me a nice basis to kick off from. I also knew that because of the large depth of the left-hand side / leaf of the final cabinet, I would either need to use very large and strong brackets to support the bottom of the cabinet, or else have it partially supported by something else. As it happened, I also wanted to build a new cupboard / base unit beneath the cabinet as I wanted to increase my home's storage space. Therefore, in addition to building the blue cabinet, at the same time I also scratch-built the pine unit beneath it. This enabled me to use it as a support for the bottom of the left-hand leaf of the cabinet, especially at the front of its left-hand side and centre, which otherwise would risk having insufficient support and breaking. This is also shown in the first sketch above.</p><p></p><p>Note: Because the support provided by the pine base unit was an essential part of this particular cabinet design, I will include its construction in the following guide, however please rest assured that if you intend to build a narrower cabinet (e.g. one of the 16.5 cm deep loose figure cabinets mentioned above), then you will NOT need to build a base unit and your finished cabinet will be quite happily supported by the hidden support brackets alone <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> </p><p></p><p>6) The final part of the preparation is having a fairly good idea of the tools and parts you will need to complete the job. Even if you don't have them all immediately to hand from the start, you do need to be aware of your likely needs, or you will end up bouncing back and forth from the DIY store like you're attached to a piece of elastic. For this build, I will detail below as complete a tools and parts list as I can:</p><p></p><p><u>Tools</u>:</p><p></p><p>Electric drill</p><p>Hand drill</p><p>Masonry drill bits</p><p>Wood drill bits</p><p>Face mask</p><p>Safety glasses / goggles</p><p>Work gloves</p><p>Ear defenders</p><p>Vacuum cleaner</p><p>Pencil</p><p>Biro</p><p>Marker pen / felt tip pen</p><p>Tape measure</p><p>Metal spirit level</p><p>Laser spirit level</p><p>Ruler</p><p>Hammer</p><p>Screwdrivers</p><p>Reversible right-angle ratchet screw driver</p><p>Paint pads / roller</p><p>Paint brush</p><p>Bradawl</p><p>Wood chisels</p><p>Centre punch</p><p>Workmate</p><p>Mitre block</p><p>Sandpaper</p><p>Sanding block</p><p>Wood saw</p><p>Hacksaw</p><p>Junior hacksaw</p><p>Stanley knife</p><p>Paper</p><p>Pliers (large)</p><p>Pliers (needle nosed)</p><p>Wide masonry chisel</p><p>Table knife</p><p>Dust sheets</p><p>Pencil eraser</p><p>Kneeling mat</p><p>Plumb line</p><p>Wooden blocks / offcuts</p><p>Scissors</p><p>Clean cloths / rags</p><p>Micrometer</p><p></p><p></p><p><u>Parts</u>:</p><p></p><p>Hardboard for cabinet back (cut to size)</p><p>MDF / Pine / Pine furniture board for cabinet frame (cut to size)</p><p>Glass shelves (cut to size)</p><p>Perspex front covers (cut to size)</p><p>Rawlplugs</p><p>Araldite</p><p>Masking tape</p><p>Parcel tape</p><p>Sellotape / Scotch Tape</p><p>Masonry screws (long)</p><p>Wood screws (long)</p><p>Wood screws (short)</p><p>Small metal washers</p><p>Angle brackets (4 inch)</p><p>Angle brackets (3 inch)</p><p>Mending plates (4 inch)</p><p>Twin-slot shelving system uprights</p><p>Twin-slot shelving system shelf brackets</p><p>Plastic twin-track channelling</p><p>Blue tacks (carpet tacks)</p><p>Nails</p><p>Paint (emulsion)</p><p>Paint (metal primer)</p><p>Sealant</p><p>Neodymium magnets</p><p>Brass hooks and eyes</p><p>Draught excluder</p><p>Cork pieces</p><p>Adhesive felt pads</p><p></p><p></p><p><u>And parts for the cupboard / storage unit</u>:</p><p></p><p>Wood lengths for frame (2" x 2") (cut to size)</p><p>Pine furniture board for top, sides and doors (cut to size)</p><p>Hardboard for cupboard back (cut to size)</p><p>Angle brackets (2 inch)</p><p>Wood screws (long)</p><p>Wood screws (short)</p><p>Wood screws (very short)</p><p>Strip hinges</p><p>Handles</p><p>Briwax wood polish</p><p>MDF for interior floor</p><p>Plastic spacers</p><p>Mending plates (4 inch)</p><p>Magnetic door catches</p><p></p><p></p><p><u>Part 2 – Building it!</u>:</p><p></p><p>To reiterate, most cabinet builds won't require a supporting base unit to be constructed. For mine however, a strong, stable base unit was essential to support the cabinet above, due to the large depth of the cabinet, and hence the relatively heavy weight at the otherwise unsupported front left edge and centre of the left-hand leaf.</p><p></p><p>The base unit I built is free-standing, but due to its large size and the fact it will be stuffed full of my junk when in use, there is no danger of it moving. However, I did want it to stand directly on the floor (mine is concrete with floor tiles), rather than on the carpet, which will compress and potentially lead to problems with the cabinet above over time. I therefore had to cut away the carpet and underlay over the area of the cupboard's footprint, which of course meant I needed to know exactly how large that footprint was. Therefore to try to minimise the chance of error, since I didn't wish to remove too much, I built the frame of the base unit first before actually chopping up my carpet! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>And so it begins…</p><p></p><p>1) Clear the area where you will be building and ready a working space (here you see the MDF, hardboard and wood I will be using, already cut to size by the timber merchant I bought it from):</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41541[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41542[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>2) Lift the carpet and underlay, and remove the carpet grippers from an area slightly larger than the approximate footprint of the base unit, but do not remove any of the carpet or underlay yet:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41543[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>3) Put down some dust sheets where you will be working, then using 2" angle brackets on all internal connections, construct the wooden frame of the base unit. Do this by holding each angle bracket in position by hand and marking the drill holes with a pencil. Use a bradawl to pierce a shallow guide hole for each one, then hand drill each screw hole to minimise the chances of the wood splitting when you subsequently fit the screws:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41544[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41545[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41546[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41547[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>4) Once the frame is assembled, fit a piece of MDF into the bottom of it as a base for the cupboard. I had the MDF cut to size length and width-wise, but I then had to saw out the 6 small squares where the frame struts go:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41548[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The base does not need to be fixed down, and will actually be an inconvenience if it is, so once you have checked that it fits, remove it again for the time-being.</p><p></p><p></p><p>5) The base unit's sides, top and doors are made from pine furniture board, and the backboard from hardboard. All of these were cut to size to my measurements by a timber merchant. Attach the sides with more 2" angle brackets, and nail the backboard on:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41549[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Snaketibe, post: 478041, member: 7379"] [ATTACH type="full" alt="011.jpg"]40329._xfImport[/ATTACH] I actually tweaked the design and some of the measurements as I went along, but the sketches gave me a nice basis to kick off from. I also knew that because of the large depth of the left-hand side / leaf of the final cabinet, I would either need to use very large and strong brackets to support the bottom of the cabinet, or else have it partially supported by something else. As it happened, I also wanted to build a new cupboard / base unit beneath the cabinet as I wanted to increase my home’s storage space. Therefore, in addition to building the blue cabinet, at the same time I also scratch-built the pine unit beneath it. This enabled me to use it as a support for the bottom of the left-hand leaf of the cabinet, especially at the front of its left-hand side and centre, which otherwise would risk having insufficient support and breaking. This is also shown in the first sketch above. Note: Because the support provided by the pine base unit was an essential part of this particular cabinet design, I will include its construction in the following guide, however please rest assured that if you intend to build a narrower cabinet (e.g. one of the 16.5 cm deep loose figure cabinets mentioned above), then you will NOT need to build a base unit and your finished cabinet will be quite happily supported by the hidden support brackets alone :-) 6) The final part of the preparation is having a fairly good idea of the tools and parts you will need to complete the job. Even if you don’t have them all immediately to hand from the start, you do need to be aware of your likely needs, or you will end up bouncing back and forth from the DIY store like you’re attached to a piece of elastic. For this build, I will detail below as complete a tools and parts list as I can: [u]Tools[/u]: Electric drill Hand drill Masonry drill bits Wood drill bits Face mask Safety glasses / goggles Work gloves Ear defenders Vacuum cleaner Pencil Biro Marker pen / felt tip pen Tape measure Metal spirit level Laser spirit level Ruler Hammer Screwdrivers Reversible right-angle ratchet screw driver Paint pads / roller Paint brush Bradawl Wood chisels Centre punch Workmate Mitre block Sandpaper Sanding block Wood saw Hacksaw Junior hacksaw Stanley knife Paper Pliers (large) Pliers (needle nosed) Wide masonry chisel Table knife Dust sheets Pencil eraser Kneeling mat Plumb line Wooden blocks / offcuts Scissors Clean cloths / rags Micrometer [u]Parts[/u]: Hardboard for cabinet back (cut to size) MDF / Pine / Pine furniture board for cabinet frame (cut to size) Glass shelves (cut to size) Perspex front covers (cut to size) Rawlplugs Araldite Masking tape Parcel tape Sellotape / Scotch Tape Masonry screws (long) Wood screws (long) Wood screws (short) Small metal washers Angle brackets (4 inch) Angle brackets (3 inch) Mending plates (4 inch) Twin-slot shelving system uprights Twin-slot shelving system shelf brackets Plastic twin-track channelling Blue tacks (carpet tacks) Nails Paint (emulsion) Paint (metal primer) Sealant Neodymium magnets Brass hooks and eyes Draught excluder Cork pieces Adhesive felt pads [u]And parts for the cupboard / storage unit[/u]: Wood lengths for frame (2” x 2”) (cut to size) Pine furniture board for top, sides and doors (cut to size) Hardboard for cupboard back (cut to size) Angle brackets (2 inch) Wood screws (long) Wood screws (short) Wood screws (very short) Strip hinges Handles Briwax wood polish MDF for interior floor Plastic spacers Mending plates (4 inch) Magnetic door catches [u]Part 2 – Building it![/u]: To reiterate, most cabinet builds won’t require a supporting base unit to be constructed. For mine however, a strong, stable base unit was essential to support the cabinet above, due to the large depth of the cabinet, and hence the relatively heavy weight at the otherwise unsupported front left edge and centre of the left-hand leaf. The base unit I built is free-standing, but due to its large size and the fact it will be stuffed full of my junk when in use, there is no danger of it moving. However, I did want it to stand directly on the floor (mine is concrete with floor tiles), rather than on the carpet, which will compress and potentially lead to problems with the cabinet above over time. I therefore had to cut away the carpet and underlay over the area of the cupboard’s footprint, which of course meant I needed to know exactly how large that footprint was. Therefore to try to minimise the chance of error, since I didn’t wish to remove too much, I built the frame of the base unit first before actually chopping up my carpet! :-) And so it begins… 1) Clear the area where you will be building and ready a working space (here you see the MDF, hardboard and wood I will be using, already cut to size by the timber merchant I bought it from): [ATTACH type="full" alt="012.jpg"]41541._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="013.jpg"]41542._xfImport[/ATTACH] 2) Lift the carpet and underlay, and remove the carpet grippers from an area slightly larger than the approximate footprint of the base unit, but do not remove any of the carpet or underlay yet: [ATTACH type="full" alt="014.jpg"]41543._xfImport[/ATTACH] 3) Put down some dust sheets where you will be working, then using 2” angle brackets on all internal connections, construct the wooden frame of the base unit. Do this by holding each angle bracket in position by hand and marking the drill holes with a pencil. Use a bradawl to pierce a shallow guide hole for each one, then hand drill each screw hole to minimise the chances of the wood splitting when you subsequently fit the screws: [ATTACH type="full" alt="015.JPG"]41544._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="016.jpg"]41545._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="017.JPG"]41546._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="018.jpg"]41547._xfImport[/ATTACH] 4) Once the frame is assembled, fit a piece of MDF into the bottom of it as a base for the cupboard. I had the MDF cut to size length and width-wise, but I then had to saw out the 6 small squares where the frame struts go: [ATTACH type="full" alt="019.jpg"]41548._xfImport[/ATTACH] The base does not need to be fixed down, and will actually be an inconvenience if it is, so once you have checked that it fits, remove it again for the time-being. 5) The base unit’s sides, top and doors are made from pine furniture board, and the backboard from hardboard. All of these were cut to size to my measurements by a timber merchant. Attach the sides with more 2” angle brackets, and nail the backboard on: [ATTACH type="full" alt="020.jpg"]41549._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Vintage Star Wars Collecting
Vintage Showcase
Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
Top
Bottom