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Vintage Star Wars Collecting
Vintage Showcase
Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
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<blockquote data-quote="Snaketibe" data-source="post: 478042" data-attributes="member: 7379"><p>The top of the cupboard is also attached by 2" angle brackets, but just like with the cupboard's base, after attaching it to make sure it fits correctly, remove it again for ease of moving the unit. The whole thing is very heavy and bloody awkward to move when fully assembled, and it will need to be moved in and out of its intended position several times over the course of the build, so you should attach the doors later, and the top and base only after it is permanently in its final position.</p><p></p><p></p><p>6) I don't know about your home, but the floors and walls in mine are not perfectly level or square. Therefore, temporarily put the unit into what will eventually be its final position, and insert plastic spacers beneath it where necessary to level the whole thing up, and check that it is indeed truly level using a spirit level. <u>This is crucial! The unit must be level or the cabinet above will look like it's at a drunken angle</u>!</p><p></p><p>The spacers I used are old double-glazing ones, but almost anything solid will do, including wood offcuts or even cardboard, providing it never gets wet:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41550[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41551[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>7) I will be using 4" angle brackets to support the bottom and top shelves of the display cabinet frame:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41552[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>With the unit in position, and remembering that the top surface of that unit is not yet fixed in place, and therefore allowing for the extra height this will add, mark the height of the bottom of the display cabinet on the wall above the unit. Leave a gap of approximately 1 cm between the top of the base unit and the bottom of the display cabinet. This gives enough room to manoeuvre the unit itself into position beneath the bottom shelf, once that's fixed in place. It also allows enough room to slide the top of the base unit into position when that's ready to be finally attached. Lastly, this gap is also small enough to wedge supporting spacers into it at appropriate points, to provide the essential support needed at the cabinet's front left-hand end and front centre of the left-hand leaf.</p><p></p><p>For now, you need only be concerned with marking the position of the bottom shelf, so draw this on the wall. Use a spirit level to ensure it's level and also parallel to the base unit's top. Next, measure and mark the positions of the angle brackets which will support the bottom shelf, manually holding each one in place and then marking the positions of the drill holes with a pencil. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41553[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Because the left-hand cabinet leaf is so large, I am using 5 brackets to support its bottom shelf, plus a further 3 to support the smaller right-hand leaf, as shown in a few photos' time.</p><p></p><p></p><p>8 ) Moving the base unit in and out of position with the carpet folded back is a damn nuisance, so it's now time to finally cut the carpet and underlay! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> Unless you're a carpet fitter, make sure you don't quite cut enough off. In other words, deliberately cut off slightly too little carpet and underlay in order that when the unit is finally put into position for the last time, the remaining excess can be carefully trimmed off to achieve a neat and tidy finish.</p><p></p><p>Having positioned the spacers and cut the carpet with the unit still in position, now carefully remove the unit leaving the spacers in place.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41554[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Tape the spacers to the floor with parcel tape or duct tape so they won't move when the unit is moved in and out of position (brilliantly, I didn't take a dedicated photograph of this [sorry!], but it can still be seen in this slightly blurred enlargement of another photo. All the spacers have been taped to the floor with brown parcel tape):</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41555[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>9) You are now ready to drill the holes for the angle brackets, but first put down a dust sheet or newspaper to catch the dust and spoil:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41556[/ATTACH]</p><p> </p><p>I make no apologies for stating the obvious at this point: <u>Be very careful when using power tools</u>! If you don't know what you're doing, ask the help of someone who does. Make sure you wear the correct protective gear when drilling. I wear gloves, a face mask, safety goggles and ear-defenders. I might look like a tit whilst I'm drilling, but I still have all my fingers, sight, hearing and no lung problems.</p><p></p><p></p><p>10) Drill all the holes! I always mark the drill holes first with a bradawl, then drill them first with a small drill bit as my walls are very hard indeed, and then re-drill them all with the full size drill bit. This takes a little longer, but makes the process massively easier. Once drilled, vacuum each hole to remove the remaining dust, hammer in rawlplugs of the correct size and then screw the angle brackets to the wall. If you've done your job properly, they should all be in a straight line:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41557[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>11) For my display cabinet shelves / frame, I used MDF, which worked just fine. However, with hindsight, I think I would have preferred to have used more pine furniture board instead, as it is lighter, less bendy and easier to tool. Whichever you use, balance the bottom shelves onto the brackets and mark all the drill / screw holes onto them from underneath:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41558[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Remove the shelves and hand drill the screw holes you just marked, taking great care not to drill right through to the other side! The shelves are thin, so be careful.</p><p></p><p>Reposition the shelves back onto the brackets and screw them into place using short wood screws. If you're making a 2-leaf design like this one, you should also use a couple of straight mending plates on the shelves' undersides to fix them together:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41559[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Snaketibe, post: 478042, member: 7379"] The top of the cupboard is also attached by 2” angle brackets, but just like with the cupboard’s base, after attaching it to make sure it fits correctly, remove it again for ease of moving the unit. The whole thing is very heavy and bloody awkward to move when fully assembled, and it will need to be moved in and out of its intended position several times over the course of the build, so you should attach the doors later, and the top and base only after it is permanently in its final position. 6) I don’t know about your home, but the floors and walls in mine are not perfectly level or square. Therefore, temporarily put the unit into what will eventually be its final position, and insert plastic spacers beneath it where necessary to level the whole thing up, and check that it is indeed truly level using a spirit level. [u]This is crucial! The unit must be level or the cabinet above will look like it’s at a drunken angle[/u]! The spacers I used are old double-glazing ones, but almost anything solid will do, including wood offcuts or even cardboard, providing it never gets wet: [ATTACH type="full" alt="021.jpg"]41550._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="022.jpg"]41551._xfImport[/ATTACH] 7) I will be using 4” angle brackets to support the bottom and top shelves of the display cabinet frame: [ATTACH type="full" alt="023.jpg"]41552._xfImport[/ATTACH] With the unit in position, and remembering that the top surface of that unit is not yet fixed in place, and therefore allowing for the extra height this will add, mark the height of the bottom of the display cabinet on the wall above the unit. Leave a gap of approximately 1 cm between the top of the base unit and the bottom of the display cabinet. This gives enough room to manoeuvre the unit itself into position beneath the bottom shelf, once that’s fixed in place. It also allows enough room to slide the top of the base unit into position when that’s ready to be finally attached. Lastly, this gap is also small enough to wedge supporting spacers into it at appropriate points, to provide the essential support needed at the cabinet’s front left-hand end and front centre of the left-hand leaf. For now, you need only be concerned with marking the position of the bottom shelf, so draw this on the wall. Use a spirit level to ensure it’s level and also parallel to the base unit’s top. Next, measure and mark the positions of the angle brackets which will support the bottom shelf, manually holding each one in place and then marking the positions of the drill holes with a pencil. [ATTACH type="full" alt="024.jpg"]41553._xfImport[/ATTACH] Because the left-hand cabinet leaf is so large, I am using 5 brackets to support its bottom shelf, plus a further 3 to support the smaller right-hand leaf, as shown in a few photos’ time. 8 ) Moving the base unit in and out of position with the carpet folded back is a damn nuisance, so it’s now time to finally cut the carpet and underlay! :-) Unless you’re a carpet fitter, make sure you don’t quite cut enough off. In other words, deliberately cut off slightly too little carpet and underlay in order that when the unit is finally put into position for the last time, the remaining excess can be carefully trimmed off to achieve a neat and tidy finish. Having positioned the spacers and cut the carpet with the unit still in position, now carefully remove the unit leaving the spacers in place. [ATTACH type="full" alt="025.jpg"]41554._xfImport[/ATTACH] Tape the spacers to the floor with parcel tape or duct tape so they won’t move when the unit is moved in and out of position (brilliantly, I didn’t take a dedicated photograph of this [sorry!], but it can still be seen in this slightly blurred enlargement of another photo. All the spacers have been taped to the floor with brown parcel tape): [ATTACH type="full" alt="026.jpg"]41555._xfImport[/ATTACH] 9) You are now ready to drill the holes for the angle brackets, but first put down a dust sheet or newspaper to catch the dust and spoil: [ATTACH type="full" alt="027.jpg"]41556._xfImport[/ATTACH] I make no apologies for stating the obvious at this point: [u]Be very careful when using power tools[/u]! If you don’t know what you’re doing, ask the help of someone who does. Make sure you wear the correct protective gear when drilling. I wear gloves, a face mask, safety goggles and ear-defenders. I might look like a tit whilst I’m drilling, but I still have all my fingers, sight, hearing and no lung problems. 10) Drill all the holes! I always mark the drill holes first with a bradawl, then drill them first with a small drill bit as my walls are very hard indeed, and then re-drill them all with the full size drill bit. This takes a little longer, but makes the process massively easier. Once drilled, vacuum each hole to remove the remaining dust, hammer in rawlplugs of the correct size and then screw the angle brackets to the wall. If you’ve done your job properly, they should all be in a straight line: [ATTACH type="full" alt="028.jpg"]41557._xfImport[/ATTACH] 11) For my display cabinet shelves / frame, I used MDF, which worked just fine. However, with hindsight, I think I would have preferred to have used more pine furniture board instead, as it is lighter, less bendy and easier to tool. Whichever you use, balance the bottom shelves onto the brackets and mark all the drill / screw holes onto them from underneath: [ATTACH type="full" alt="029.jpg"]41558._xfImport[/ATTACH] Remove the shelves and hand drill the screw holes you just marked, taking great care not to drill right through to the other side! The shelves are thin, so be careful. Reposition the shelves back onto the brackets and screw them into place using short wood screws. If you’re making a 2-leaf design like this one, you should also use a couple of straight mending plates on the shelves’ undersides to fix them together: [ATTACH type="full" alt="030.jpg"]41559._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
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