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Resealing a 12-Back Palitoy Jawa
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<blockquote data-quote="Snaketibe" data-source="post: 527071" data-attributes="member: 7379"><p>With the left side of the racetrack dealt with, it was now time to tackle the central yellow litho area. I won't lie, this was as tricky as hell, due to the need to line it up perfectly both with the cardback and the bubble yet to be attached! In the end, I gently tacked it in place with tiny amounts of Pritt Stick until I was happy with its position, and then used UHU to stick down the right-hand edge. With that firmly fixed in place, I then used Pritt Stick to stick down the bulk of the rest of it, smoothing it down and trying to leave no wrinkles or ridges. I also tackled the torn area, which I carefully repaired as best as I was able, before sticking any remaining unstuck edges down with more UHU:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64912[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I then blended in the edges of the repaired torn area with a very fine layer from a thin-tipped yellow felt tip, then scraped off as much of the old brown tape residue to the left of the tear as possible:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64913[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>That done, I laid the bubble on top of the card to check the alignment:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64914[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Because the bubble needs to line up absolutely perfectly in order for the joins not to be seen, you can give yourself a little bit of wiggle room by applying tiny amounts of fine-tipped black pen to all black line joins which will be under the bubble. This allows very slight misaligments to go unnoticed <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Satisfied, I then turned my attention to the bubble. The original tape had long since dried up and come off, but as so often happens, a small amount of crusty residue remained inside the bubble. I cleaned this off with surgical spirit and cotton buds, but not before measuring the original tape's width and length from the residue left on the card. I then used these measurements to fashion a new length of tape of the correct size from 3M archival tape which does not yellow over time. I made sure not to touch the surface of the new tape with my fingers as I wanted no ugly fingerprints on the finished item. Instead, I used tweezers, and laid the tape on top of the blaster and then stuck it to the inside of the now cleaned bubble, having first ensured that I was placing it at a height within the bubble such that the thick blaster tip would not press against the Jawa's right-hand, since the bubble is actually quite a tight fit:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64915[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>That done, I inserted the footer and Jawa, and then checked the bubble's alignement one last time, ensuring that I knew exactly where I wanted to glue it down:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64916[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>With that final check over, it was time to break out the UHU one last time, applying it with a fine paint brush to the area where the bubble's edges will be, and working very rapidly due to the speed at which it dries. Once glued in place, I pressed firmly down on all the glued edges to help fix it in position (you must make sure you don't over apply the UHU or it will squeeze out from under the bubble's edges and make a mess).</p><p></p><p>And finally, with that job done, you can sit back and look at your now resealed Palitoy 12-back Jawa <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64917[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64918[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And there you have it! It's not perfect, but it will certainly do me until that lottery win arrives. It's a reseal, and it will always be a reseal, not a MOC. Whilst I am all in favour of trying to make my reseals look as good as possible, it's not supposed to fool anyone. A reseal is all it will ever be, but in the absence of the real thing, I'm happy enough with the end result <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>And lastly, in case anyone cares, here's the back of the card ;-)</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]64919[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Snaketibe, post: 527071, member: 7379"] With the left side of the racetrack dealt with, it was now time to tackle the central yellow litho area. I won't lie, this was as tricky as hell, due to the need to line it up perfectly both with the cardback and the bubble yet to be attached! In the end, I gently tacked it in place with tiny amounts of Pritt Stick until I was happy with its position, and then used UHU to stick down the right-hand edge. With that firmly fixed in place, I then used Pritt Stick to stick down the bulk of the rest of it, smoothing it down and trying to leave no wrinkles or ridges. I also tackled the torn area, which I carefully repaired as best as I was able, before sticking any remaining unstuck edges down with more UHU: [ATTACH type="full" alt="15 - Yellow Litho - Before.jpg"]64912._xfImport[/ATTACH] I then blended in the edges of the repaired torn area with a very fine layer from a thin-tipped yellow felt tip, then scraped off as much of the old brown tape residue to the left of the tear as possible: [ATTACH type="full" alt="16 - Yellow Litho - After.jpg"]64913._xfImport[/ATTACH] That done, I laid the bubble on top of the card to check the alignment: [ATTACH type="full" alt="17 - Alignment.jpg"]64914._xfImport[/ATTACH] Because the bubble needs to line up absolutely perfectly in order for the joins not to be seen, you can give yourself a little bit of wiggle room by applying tiny amounts of fine-tipped black pen to all black line joins which will be under the bubble. This allows very slight misaligments to go unnoticed :-) Satisfied, I then turned my attention to the bubble. The original tape had long since dried up and come off, but as so often happens, a small amount of crusty residue remained inside the bubble. I cleaned this off with surgical spirit and cotton buds, but not before measuring the original tape's width and length from the residue left on the card. I then used these measurements to fashion a new length of tape of the correct size from 3M archival tape which does not yellow over time. I made sure not to touch the surface of the new tape with my fingers as I wanted no ugly fingerprints on the finished item. Instead, I used tweezers, and laid the tape on top of the blaster and then stuck it to the inside of the now cleaned bubble, having first ensured that I was placing it at a height within the bubble such that the thick blaster tip would not press against the Jawa's right-hand, since the bubble is actually quite a tight fit: [ATTACH type="full" alt="18 - Re-tape Weapon.jpg"]64915._xfImport[/ATTACH] That done, I inserted the footer and Jawa, and then checked the bubble's alignement one last time, ensuring that I knew exactly where I wanted to glue it down: [ATTACH type="full" alt="19 - Last Check.jpg"]64916._xfImport[/ATTACH] With that final check over, it was time to break out the UHU one last time, applying it with a fine paint brush to the area where the bubble's edges will be, and working very rapidly due to the speed at which it dries. Once glued in place, I pressed firmly down on all the glued edges to help fix it in position (you must make sure you don't over apply the UHU or it will squeeze out from under the bubble's edges and make a mess). And finally, with that job done, you can sit back and look at your now resealed Palitoy 12-back Jawa :-): [ATTACH type="full" alt="20 - Final - 01.jpg"]64917._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="21 - Final - 02.jpg"]64918._xfImport[/ATTACH] And there you have it! It's not perfect, but it will certainly do me until that lottery win arrives. It's a reseal, and it will always be a reseal, not a MOC. Whilst I am all in favour of trying to make my reseals look as good as possible, it's not supposed to fool anyone. A reseal is all it will ever be, but in the absence of the real thing, I'm happy enough with the end result :-) And lastly, in case anyone cares, here's the back of the card ;-) [ATTACH type="full" alt="22 - Rear.jpg"]64919._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Resealing a 12-Back Palitoy Jawa
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